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Wednesday 25 September 2013

Milan Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2014 | A Review | The Old & The New

Milan | The Reinvention 
Milan Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2014 is over and Paris just started. This year Milan was exceptional, better than previous years. La Camera Nazionale della Moda worked hard, by adding new talent to the runway calender like Stella Jean, MSGM and Fausto Puglisi, Costume National returned to Milan, whilst the established ones like Prada and Dolce & Gabbana  showed who they are with a spectacular collection from both.

MSGM
It's Massimo Giornetti's runway debut at Milan Fashion Week. A bright and lively edition, the prints and mix and match of MSGM was evident. It was a tropicana, Hawaiian inspiration and he put it out there remarkably well, he is here to stay. 

DSQUARED2
Brigitte Bardot in St. Tropez and Cannes, Sophia Loren in Capri, it was a rich woman's collection walking on the promenade enjoying the beautiful surroundings and lounging on her yacht. Cocktails and showgirls, a world of fun from Dan & Dean. 

ALBERTA FERRETTI
 Alberta Ferretti went for a colourful subtle collection perfect for the non working woman, off to her vacations in the sun and next to the sea. Tiered skirts and perfect femininity.

ANTONIO MARRAS
A collection of ethereal creatures, in Antonio Marras's enchanting Japanese Greek forest, perfect details belonging to the world of couture, sartorial and technical. So pure and calming, I loved it!

NO.21
Masculine blazers, oversized and long. No.21 was fresh, floral prints and pale colours, a sophisticated young women. Shirts emroided at  the hem, which looked like a dress. A bit of sex appeal was just right. 

MARNI
Visors, oh those visors, great! Marni gave us a floral Japanese embroideries with a sporty feel. Very wearable, young, and sophisticated. Loved the petals and all the accessories but the shoes, no, no, no!


BLUEMARINE
Sex! A summer night and the girl meets her boy. The collection was a total seduction, with flowers on embroided lace,  Italian sophistication, a provocation different from any other. 

ROBERTO CAVALLI
A very subtle collection from Roberto Cavalli yet still the Cavalli woman. It was a flapper 1930s, from the lengths to the silhouettes  kaftans, reptile print, shiny biker jackers beautiful fur and and intricate details. Technically masterful! Wow!

EMILIO PUCCI
Peter Dundas and his bad girl. She is hot and confident. Tight, no room for imperfect women, fringes, sport materials, hip-hop, embellishments, embroideries and a punk/rock. This is for the jet-set sporty cosmopolitan women. Any celebrity in mind?

FENDI
Karl Lagerfeld gave us wigs, what fun! Another deconstruction and constriction. He is ahead, an so is Fendi. A futuristic collection, lots of leather and laser cut organza. He even had Pooch like bags with fur. Genius

MAX MARA 
Straight lines, a sexy career woman, pale grey and bright colours. Coats and over sized jackets styled pencil skirts, slip dresses and sheer tunics, she is working it - understated sophistication.

COSTUME NATIONAL
A cool comback to Milan after 23 years. A reconstruction, maybe its his way of coming back, deconstruction or not, the blazers and colours were futuristic, the V-neck went straight down, leaving little to the imagination. She a new woman with a paradox, she came back to her old tailoring Italian roots. 

GIANFRANCO FERRÉ
A tribute to Gia Caragi and her sultry look, the collection had a neutral architectural feel, exceptional silhouettes with belts around the waist on all the looks. Asymmetry and refined lines - a winner. Beautiful!

SALVATORE FERRAGAMO
Massimiliano Giornetti's simple collection, yet a brilliantly well constructed/de-constructed forms. The cut-off blazer will have every fashionista wanting it. A neutral palette and masculine lines - Non-[Conventional].
THE TRENDS
1. The bed hair 2.Wigs 3.Colour Blocking 4.Deconstruction/Construction 5.Florals
6.Midriffs 7.White 8.Cut-offs 9.Art 10. Decadence

There was much much more, and so many other beautiful collections.
I love Milan Fashion Week and I miss it so much!

All the collections and reviews for Prada, Dolce & Gabbana, Fausto Puglisi and Stella Jean 
are on my blog. 

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